Buying a Sailboat? Do it Yourself
At Let’s Go Sail, the Boat Buying Cruise is for those who are determined to own their own sailboat. Unless they’re flush with cash, I recommend buying used. For one thing, the engine is already broken in and presumably everything else works. That’s not always the case with new.
Lots of boats are on the market, privately by owner and with boat brokerages. As with cars, the rise of the Internet has smoothed out prices to the point that’s difficult to steal a boat. By the same token, prices are generally fair and you won’t pay too much. To steal a boat, you have to lowball the offer. Sometimes that works, especially for desperate sellers. That raises two questions: Why is he or she desperate? Is it the condition of the boat?
Unlike the residential real estate market, there is no such thing as a buyer’s broker. It’s just a boat, not a house. You simply have to do a little price comparison in the range of size or price that you’re looking at. Rules of thumb (1) The older the boat, the less the price; (2) The bigger the boat, the higher the price.
Surveyor or not?
You can hire a surveyor to check out your finalist boats, but be prepared to pay $800 or more depending on the size of the boat. An alternative is to take a knowledgeable sailor/mechanical friend to spend an hour looking over the boat. The surveyor will find so many things wrong with the boat that you’ll wonder why you even bothered. It’s like running a credit check on your second fiancé. You’re better off with the willing friend. Ask him to rate the degree of any given flaw: Cosmetic, Minor, Major, Deal-killer. Surveyors won’t do that.
First impressions matter. If it looks like a fixer-upper, it’s undoubtedly a fixer-upper. If it looks pristine, someone has taken good care of the boat. Naturally you’ll want to take it for a test drive, but not so fast. Boat brokerages require a signed contract and down payment so as to avoid joy riders. Private sellers are more likely and eager to take you out for free to show you her speed and maneuverability.
The checklist below is hardly exhaustive, but it will disclose a lot of defects. The list is broken into three main categories: Above the boat, Inside the boat, Below the Boat. The boat is assumed to be diesel operated inboard and can be viewed on “the hards,” that is out of the water on jack stands. Some of the terms may seem obscure to the prospective buyer, but the willing friend will know what they mean.
ABOVE THE BOAT
Mast — Straight, clean, devoid of dents or gashes
Boom — Clean, with boom kicker, tightly attached
Shrouds — Smooth, tightly attached, rust-free chain plates
Rails — Rust-free, tightly bedded to deck, lifelines tight
Main — Clean, crisp, no threads, no stains, firm belly
Jib — Winds easily into furler, looks clean and flat
Genoa — Same as jib, extends 20% behind the mast
Spinnaker — Free of tears, packed in chute, clean and bright
Sheets — Lines bright, clean, free of mold, no fraying
Halyards — Same as Sheets and flow through blocks well
Sheaves — Intact, bright, smooth wheel movement
INSIDE THE BOAT
Engine — Clean, starts easily, little or no smoke, reaches RPM
Drive Shaft — No nicks or rust, turns easily
Stuffing Box — Tightly wound to allow few or no water drips
Transmission — Clean oil, no plastic parts (Beneteau)
Muffler — No exterior leaks or internal corrosion
Mixing Elbow — Replaced within 5 years, check water flow
Fuel Filters — Replaced annually, no sign of crud in jar
Helm — Feels tight, moves easily, looks shipshape
Cockpit — Clean, no snags, no nicks, easy to move around
Fiberglas — Shiny, or at least free of chalky oxidation
Catbirds — Bright work (wood) well varnished
Pedestal — Easy to work around, comes with cup holders
Screws — All intact, tightly wound, no rust
Head — Smells clean, toilet clean, uncluttered. Test it.
Salon — No black signs or smell of mold, implies leaks
BELOW THE BOAT
Bottom Paint — Consistent everywhere, no blisters
Prop Paint — Residue apparent of attempts to preserve
Prop Dings — Dings, cuts and bending imply damage
Keel Paint — Missing point underneath implies aground
Keel Damage — Bent or dinged suggests ran aground
Zincs — Intact on shaft, usually need routine replacement
Drain Openings — Free and clear, test from Salon with water
Speedometer — Works accurately. Flanges clean, painted.
Depth Meter — Smooth surface, unpainted. Test in slip.
Oxidized Hull — Requires compounding before waxing
Fiberglas Dings — Implies damage while docking
Rubrail — Smooth, clean and totally intact
Stern Ladder — Flexible, rust-free and telescopes easily
Let’s Go Sail, but check it out first
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